Often referred to as the 'Soho of the North', the Underbanks area of Stockport is a thriving part of the town centre, with a range of cafes, shops and restaurants occupying its historic buildings.
Both Lower Hillgate and Little Underbank, which lead onto the town's market area, are home to a clutch of independent businesses - from record stores and magazine shops, to bakeries and celebrity fronted hair salons. And its bustling shopping and hospitality scene is part of the reason why it was named in The Sunday Times’ Best Places to Live list just a couple of months ago.
However, while we've been focusing our attention on 'Rediscovering the Underbanks' and the fresh crop of new openings, one of its best assets has been hiding in plain sight - well up a steep set of steps. Dal Barista, a coffee shop, bistro and Italian restaurant sits halfway up a set of steps leading up to the Marketplace - and is one of Stockport's best kept secrets.
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It's easy to overlook the board signposting the restaurant at the foot of the steps on Little Underbank - or at least that's what I keep telling myself. But, when you do make the climb, stopping at the decorative table and chairs just in front of the entrance, you'll soon see why it's worth the effort.
"An English breakfast? Or maybe a good Italian meal?" reads a sign just before you enter the green-fronted cafe - a culinary combination you might not be expecting, but somehow adds to its charm. Multi-coloured lights reminiscent of a school disco project onto the walls, and you can't help but wonder, 'what on earth is going on here, have I stepped into a impromptu rave?'
But as a series of nondescript piano tracks quietly fill the room, it becomes apparent that things at Dal Barista are just a bit more on the quirkier side. While its diamanté-encrusted mirror, Union Jack flags, porcelain dolls and china tea sets might not scream 'authentic Italian cuisine', it's best to let yourself dig a little deeper before casting your verdict.
It's a little quiet for lunchtime, I'm reassured by the presence of a man sitting on the other side of the room, who's quietly enjoying a glass of red and large bowl of pasta. I wonder if the small smile he's wearing across his face is because he's sitting safe in the knowledge that he's one of the few to be in the know about Dal Barista.
English breakfast and Italian pasta dishes are the main focus here, but while I skip the fry-up and head straight for the Sardinian pasta special, I can't help but marvel at the prices. Served all day - and with salad, which comes dressed with a balsamic glaze - all breakfast plates come in at under a tenner.
The large portion, with egg, two rashes of bacon, sausages, hash browns, beans, toast, tomato, mushroom and black puddings - so all the trimmings - comes in at a £7.95, while you can get a small breakfast plate for £5.95, eggs benedict for £6.50 and eggs royale for £7.20. Similarly, bacon and sausage baps come in at £3.95, and beans on toast costs as little as £2.50.
The fair prices are reflected across the menu, with sandwiches and ciabatta bursting at the seams with fillings such as mature cheddar and caramelised red onion, and spicy meatballs and mozzarella priced at £4.50 and £4.95 respectively.
Meanwhile, starters, like the co*cktail di gamberi, which sounds much more exciting written in Italian, and mushrooms with garlic, parsley and white wine come in at a slightly pricier £7.95, but should be considered a bargain when you weigh up how much you could spend dining out in the city centre.
There's a small but refined pasta selection priced between £8.50 and £10.95, spanning dishes including fresh tagliatelle carbonara, penne with double cream and salmon, and staples like Bolognese and lasagne, but owner Pericle tempts me with the specials. It's a close call between clams and mussels with a simple sauce and fileja pasta with Sardinian sausage, fennel and tomato sauce - but the latter has it, as its the type of pasta that can carry off a heavy meat sauce.
It was the right choice. A hearty portion of pasta arrives doused in thick and rich tomato sauce and topped with meaty chunks of sausage. My only regret? Not ordering a glass of house red. The homemade garlic bread (£2.95) makes up for it slightly, thick slices of bread generously spread with olive oil and a copious amount of pepper.
After quickly polishing off the pasta, I realised I had a second regret. I'd been obsessively watching the clock to make sure I didn't take too long away from my to-do list, but in the process I'd failed to appreciate the relaxed vibe in the restaurant, the hum of Italian flowing between owner Pericle and the kitchen, the calmness of the aforementioned piano soundtrack and the stillness of the dining room tucked off the busy marketplace above.
Most likely the convenience of meal deals and grab-and-go options has made us all a little robotic when it comes to taking our lunch hour. And while I probably won't be making a habit of ordering large bowls of pasta and even larger glasses of wine on my lunch break - though it would be nice - maybe I'll take my time a bit more and enjoy what's in front of me once in a while. Which brings me to the tiramisu.
Did I need it? Probably not. But following my epiphany about lunch breaks, it only seemed right to defer the resumption of my work duties with a classic Italian dessert.
In a nod to the earlier quirkiness, the glass of tiramisu (£6.95) is served on a plate dusted with chocolate, leaving a phantom fork design, which certainly raises a smile. Of course, I don't need to lecture you about its appeal, it's an Italian staple, but Pericle's version was a perfect blend of flavour and texture, the creamy mascarpone and coffee-infused sponge delicately balanced.
It might not have the fanfare and finesse of some of the other more recent additions to the Underbanks. But by slipping under the radar due to its position tucked away on a passageway in the Old Town, this authentic, and very earnest Italian café has definitely earned its hidden gem status.
